Why the Y-Necklace is Coming Back

FOR QUITE SOME TIME, I’ve seen one article after another about the “Downton Abbey” effect on fashion. Yet, I haven’t seen anything pointing to the return of Y-necklaces. And, frankly, that surprises me. First, because Y-necks have been trickling back onto the jewelry scene and, second, because their very roots are believed by many to date back to the post-Edwardian era—yes, the time in which PBS’s popular British period drama series is set.

But “Downton Abbey” aside for a moment, the runways, too, are playing a role in the Y-necklace’s return. From New York to Paris, in their 2013 spring and fall collections, fashion’s big names focused on the V-neckline—inarguably a perfect backdrop for a Y-necklace. To imagine just how perfect, think of Amy Poehler at the Golden Globes in January. Wearing an 83-carat diamond necklace from Chopard, Ms. Poehler was one of the night’s showstoppers. And while the mega-watt diamond design was, technically, more Y-like, it forecasted the jewelry design direction. Well, to be more accurate, the jewelry design RE-direction . . .

To understand that, how about a quick review—a few ABCs on the Y. Admittedly, it’s been awhile since it was jewelry’s big thing—over 15 years ago, in fact. But in 1996, it was THE necklace. It hadn’t been that popular since it evolved from the lavaliere--in vogue from around 1900 through 1910—into an important post-Edwardian necklace silhouette--draped around the neck in such a way that it looks like the capital letter “Y” when worn. It was the on-trend necklace donned by the female stars on television shows like “Friends” and “Melrose Place.” And that’s because Erica Courtney was the L.A. designer selling her Y-necks to the stylist for those two now-iconic TV series. As I recall, at the time, there were several West Coast designers making trendy Y-necklace styles. Hard to remember exactly, but I believe Cathy Carmendy and Cathy Waterman were part that elite circle of L.A.’s Y-necklace names. One thing I do remember exactly is what Ms. Courtney said when she first showed me one of her Y-necklaces and I wanted to know what her inspiration was. “Rosary beads—don’t they look like that to you?” she asked me.

That they did. Designers—they’re not like the rest of us. It’s kind of remarkable, really, how they can look at the same thing we do—something unrelated to jewelry--and, from it, create some amazing accessory to wear. Remember when Stephen Webster came out with his “Murder She Wrote Collection” back in 2011? At the time, when I asked what his inspiration was, he told me “those quintessentially English crime dramas.” I mention that particular collection because in it, Mr. Webster showed some dagger pendants with the distinctive capital-Y necklace shape. As usual, he was ahead of the curve—well, in this case, the current Y-necklace resurgence curve.

My guess is that, as this year continues to unfold, we’ll see some interesting 2013 Y-necklaces, especially from designers who’ve never before tried the Y. And I look forward to it. - by Lorraine DePasque, Instore Mag

Come in and visit Burdeen's Jewelry to try on our selection of dazzling diamond Y-necklaces today!